When the hot water stops, check the simple things first. On an electric system, look for a tripped switch at the switchboard and think about whether it only heats on off-peak power. On gas, check other gas appliances work, that the LPG bottles aren’t empty, and whether the pilot light is out. If the tank is leaking, water is pouring from the relief valve, or you can smell gas, stop checking and ring a plumber.
Stop and ring straight away if
- The tank is leaking from the base or the body of the cylinder. Close the valve on the cold water pipe going into the unit, and turn off the power or gas to it if you can do that safely.
- Water is running constantly from the relief valve or its drain pipe, not just a small drip while it heats.
- You can smell gas. If there is an immediate danger, leave the area and call 000. For a suspected leak, get outside and ring Craig.
- The switch keeps tripping at the switchboard. Don’t keep resetting it.
- Water near the power. Keep everyone clear and switch off at the switchboard only if you can reach it safely.
Our post on what to do with a gas leak or burst pipe covers the first few minutes in more detail.
Electric storage and smart electric
- Check the switchboard. A tripped circuit for the hot water is a common cause. If it trips again straight after you reset it, leave it off and ring us.
- Off-peak timing. Many electric units only heat during off-peak times, often overnight. After a run of long showers or a full house of visitors, the tank can be empty until the next heating period.
- Smart and solar-timed units may be set to heat when your panels are producing. A few grey days can change what you get.
- Still cold after a full off-peak period? That usually points to a thermostat or element, which is a repair rather than a new system.
Gas storage
- Is the gas on? If the cooktop won’t light either, the problem is the gas supply, not the hot water unit.
- LPG bottles. A lot of rural Barossa properties run on bottled gas. Check whether the bottle in use is empty and whether the changeover has switched across.
- Pilot light. If your unit has one and it has gone out, relight it only by following the instructions on the unit’s label. If it won’t stay lit, or keeps going out, that is a job for a licensed gas fitter.
Gas continuous flow
- Power. These units need electricity to run, so check the power point beside it and the switchboard.
- Gas. Same checks as above: other gas appliances, and the LPG bottles on bottled-gas properties.
- Error codes. If there is a controller inside, write down any code it shows. It helps Craig work out what has gone wrong before he arrives.
- One tap only? If hot water works in the kitchen but not in one shower, the problem may be that tap or its mixer, not the unit.
Heat pump and solar
- Heat pumps draw warmth from the air, so they can take longer to heat a tank than a standard element, and not every model is designed for places that regularly drop below 5°C in winter. Check the power and listen for the unit running.
- Solar systems rely on a gas or electric booster in winter and on cloudy days. If the water is only cold after grey weather, check the booster is switched on.
Done the checks and still cold? Ring Craig on 0499 319 297.
Lukewarm, too hot or rusty water
- Lukewarm or too hot at the taps. This is often the tempering valve, which mixes cold water in so the bathroom taps don’t scald. Don’t turn the tank down to fix it: storage systems need to keep the water hot enough to stop bacteria such as Legionella growing, and the valve is what brings it down at the tap.
- Rusty or discoloured hot water from an older tank often means the cylinder is near the end of its life.
- Running out every day. The system may simply be too small for the household now.
Repair or replace?
Most hot water repairs come down to one part: a relief valve, thermostat, element, pilot or tempering valve. Those are usually worth fixing, especially on a younger system. A leaking tank can’t be patched once the cylinder has rusted through, and an old unit that keeps breaking down is usually better replaced. Either way, you’ll know the price before any work starts. Our hot water page has more on how Craig decides, and if it is time for a new system, our guide to heat pump, gas or solar hot water walks through the options and the SA rules for replacements.
What to tell us when you ring
- The make and model from the label on the unit, and roughly how old it is.
- Whether it is electric, gas (natural gas or LPG), heat pump or solar.
- What you have noticed: no hot water at all, lukewarm, leaking, noises or an error code.
- A photo of the unit and the label, emailed to hello@piperplumbing.au, if it isn’t urgent.
No hot water at all is one of the jobs our 24/7 emergency line is there for, day or night.
We’re based in Williamstown and work right across the Barossa Valley, Gawler and surrounds, including Nuriootpa, Lyndoch and Mount Pleasant. Ring Craig on 0499 319 297, call Hayley in the office on (08) 8472 9507, or send us the details.
Sources
Rules and schemes change. These sources were checked on 25 October 2026. Licence: LIC PGE341299.
More from the blog
- How often should a septic tank be pumped out in the Barossa?
- Heat pump, gas or solar hot water: which suits a Barossa home?
- Plumbing a rainwater tank into your house in SA
- Blocked drains and tree roots: signs, causes and fixes
- Gas leak or burst pipe: what to do before the plumber arrives
- Stormwater drainage problems: pooling water, overflowing pits and blocked downpipes
- CCTV drain inspections: what the camera shows and when you need one
- Bathroom renovations in the Barossa: how the plumbing side works
